WHEN?
December 2024 (Low Season)
Pros:
Far fewer tourists, which is priceless.
Significantly lower prices for hotels, scooter rentals, etc.
Cons:
Many attractions and services may be closed.
The weather can be gray, rainy, and cold.
WHERE?
Preparing for CHINA:
Essential Apps to Download:
Alipay (most important; very little cash is used in China).
Didi (China's version of Uber).
Maps.me (better than Google Maps, which is blocked).
Apple Maps (works without VPN).
WeChat (necessary for communication).
Trip.com (best for booking trains, hotels, and activities; also has a great map feature). I recommend booking everything through this app: trains, buses, hotels etc.
Baidu Translate (you just NEED it to communicate. Alsmot no one speals English)
Data & VPN:
Your home provider's data package may work, but it is often expensive.
Buying a SIM card online before arrival can be convenient.
Buying a SIM card in China is possible but not the easiest option.
Most Western apps (Google, Meta, etc.) are blocked, so a VPN (e.g., NordVPN) is highly recommended.
Payment & Visa Requirements:
Visa policies have changed, so check current rules for your nationality. Some travelers (e.g., French citizens) now get visa-free entry for 14 days.
Almost everything is paid via Alipay, even street vendors selling fruit for a few cents.
In general, China, especially the Guangxi region, is VERY cheap compared to occidental countries and to Hong Kong. We could have full dinners, with drinks, for 2-3 euros per person when we were in the countryside.
Traveling by Train in China:
Train tickets are linked to your passport or Chinese ID—no paper ticket is required if booking via Trip.com.
It is VERY easy, and prices are reasonable.
Trains may depart 1-2 minutes early, so arrive in advance.
Security checks for luggage—be mindful of restricted items.
Hot water dispensers are available on trains for tea, instant noodles, etc.
What to PACK?
For winter/dry season (December - February):
Warm clothes: Temperatures range from 5-15°C, and it gets chilly, especially in the evenings or when cycling/scootering.
Activewear: Perfect for hiking, cycling, and running, as the region offers fantastic outdoor activities.
Swimsuit: For a dip in the river, a spa, or natural hot springs.
Rain gear: The weather can be unpredictable.
Mosquito spray: Especially if visiting in warmer months.
Reusable water bottle
How to ARRIVE?
We went by train, all the way from Hong Kong. There are several itineraries; just have a look at Trip.com for what works for you. You can arrive by train at one of Guilin's three stations or at Yangshuo Station. However, note that Yangshuo Station is actually 45 min to 1 hour from the city center, while Guilin is about 1 hour 15 min to 1 hour 30 min away, making all arrival options quite similar in terms of convenience. Then, take a didi. Do not follow all the drivers harassing you when you arrive.
Depart from Kowloon West Station (arrive 45min -1 h early to clear customs/security checks).
Train ride to Guangzhou: Sit on the right side for great views, including the Canton Tower.
As we approached Yangshuo, the landscape transformed into stunning karst mountains.
Arrived at Yangshuo Station, booked a Didi (Alipay/Didi much cheaper than station taxis!!!).
WHERE to STAY?
Yangshuo / Guilin:
We highly recommend staying in Yangshuo. Guilin is a large city with little charm and is quite far from the most scenic spots. Nevertheless, we were craving for calm and Nature, but if you want more ambiance, you can still stay in Guilin’s old town; it has its charm.
We stayed at Eden Inn, recommended by a friend. At the time, it was run by a French owner, Eric, his Chinese wife, Sammie, and Limmin, a Chinese-Argentinian staff member, making communication easy in Chinese, French, and Spanish. They were incredibly welcoming, and we had dinner with them every evening, creating a warm, family-like atmosphere. The hotel itself was decent, with super comfortable beds and a lively common area featuring darts, a pool table, and a well-stocked bar. The owners have changed, but you could still have a look!
Tonglin:
We stayed at 靖西椿萱居民宿. Highly recommended! Nested in the natural park, all new, super clean, close to the start of the hike, and the property manager was just adorable.
Nanning:
So many options on Trip.com…
We stayed at the Ufun Hotel (Nanning Mixc Convention and Exhibition Center), and I would recommend it! It is a good location to visit the city park, has a nice staff, and a great breakfast buffet.
What to EAT?
As a vegetarian, I had little hope and was ready to eat rice and rice. But you know what… I actually had a good surprise because there are a LOT of farms in Yanghsuo and XX and XX, so people mainly eat vegetarian. The main dish would have chicken or duck or fish, but then all around, they would have plates of vegetables and tofu, and it was delicious. If you eat dead animals, just ask the restaurant for the local recommendations.
In Yangshuo, all the restaurants on Eden Inn’s street were delicious and cheap, and the people were the most welcoming. You also have options with beautiful views all along the river!
Local beers and alcohols were fun to try, and so cheap.
In the main cities, it was way more difficult to find local restaurants with vegetarian options, but then almost all big cities would have a few fully vegetarian options. I even used Happy Cow.
YANGSHUO and GUILIN
I leave it to you to build your on itinary because it depends a lot on the activities you want to do, and the weather.
THE Li River by BikE
You could easily spend 2-3 days chilling around Yangshuo and Guilin
Rent bikes (or scooters)—cheap (~3-5€/day, depending on the season).
There is a gorgeous cycling route along the Li River.
There are a lot of cute cafes and restaurants all along the river
We spontaneously hiked to a flag-marked viewpoint—steep but worth it! You might see it on the road, haha, no idea where it was,
You could do some Bamboo Rafting
Fuli Bridge: just GORGEOUS
Yulong Bridge: beautiful too.
Other options, we did not have time:
Guilin: We just walked around one evening, but there seemed to be a few things to do around.
Moon Hill is a karst peak with a natural moon-shaped arch at the top. Short but steep hike, incredible views from the top.
Yulong River Bamboo Rafting Much quieter and more beautiful than the Li River — float on a bamboo raft through stunning scenery. Magical and very peaceful.
Longji Rice Terraces (day trip, ~2h away) Jaw-dropping stepped rice terraces carved into the mountains. Best in spring (water reflection) or autumn (golden harvest).
Caving, Stone Village, & Sunset Viewpoints
Try to wake up early!
Hire a private driver (your hotel will know someone). Didi is an option, but to have flexibility and be sure to find someone, we recommend the driver.
Explored this huge “secret” Cave with Panso:
The tour lasted 3-4 hours, highly recommended for adventure seekers (claustrophobic people should avoid!). It was MAGICAL. Involves climbing, narrow passages, and rappelling— thrilling!
Right after (same area), visit the Old Stone Village, an ancient, mystical site perfect for wandering.
Depending on what time it is, there is also a nice sunset viewpoint on the way. Or at least just stop for the view
The most famous cave in the area is the Reed Flute Cave, located 5 km northwest of downtown Guilin. It is a natural limestone cave. We did not do it, but it is more touristy (and easier!) than the one we did, but I super beautiful too. We did a lot of “tourist” caves in China, and it is always worth it!
TONGLIN
Take a train from Guilin to Nanning East (2 hours), then hire a private driver to Tonglin (via didi, or when in Yuangshuo, ask around or at your hotel, people “always know someone”. Do not hesitate to bargain).
Once there, usually your hotel will know drivers that can take you around.
The Tonglin Canyon is amazing. The centerpiece is a 188-meter-high waterfall that plunges into a deep pool, creating a mist-filled environment. It is the highest single-stage waterfall in Southeast Asia.The path trhough breathtaking canyons, waterfalls, and caves is super easy to follow, and it is back and forth. It takes easily half a day!
We also visited the Sandieling Waterfall, and there is a nice little loop/hike starting from the parking or waterfall.
DETIAN & MINGSHI
We hired a driver (ask at your hotel in Tonglin) for a full-day trip covering:
Detian Waterfall: spectacular border waterfall shared with Vietnam!
The Mingshi Scenic Area is less touristy and has amazing landscapes.
Back to Nanning’s Old Town. We stayed in Nanning for one night because of the timings of the trains. We explored Qingxiu Mountain Scenic Spot Zone Park in the morning before heading to Hong Kong. The park is HUGE and very beautiful.
Final Thoughts & Summary:
For a 1-week trip, I recommend:
Yangshuo (3-4 days) – cycling, caving, stone village, rafting.
Tonglin & Canyon (1-2 days).
Detian & Mingshi Scenic Area (1-2 days).
Nanning (only if you have to because of logistics) OR Shenzen & Departure.
Hope this helps plan your adventure!

